For a strong whiff of the sea and a taste of what remains of old Surabaya, visit the Kalimas Harbour, the city’s original port. This is where broad-beamed pinisi schooners unload produce along a 2 km stretch of quayside. The best time to visit is early in the morning when the boats are setting sail.

Phuket and beaches go hand in hand; whether it’s surfing, people-watching, or just sinking into quiet sand, there’s a stretch of coastline for every mood. Freedom Beach stays quiet for a reason: it’s tucked behind the jungle and can be reached either by longtail boat or by a steep trail for those willing to hike. The effort pays off with soft sand, clear water, and almost no facilities. Kata Beach has more going on, with surf lessons, cafés, and plenty of space, while Kata Noi, just around the corner, is calmer and more relaxed. Patong Beach is the opposite end of the spectrum: long, busy, and lined with bars, shops, and nightlife. Somewhere in between, Karon, Nai Harn, and Surin offer long stretches of sand without the chaos, still with enough restaurants and sunbeds if needed.

Surabaya’s most important museum offers a fascinating insight into the ancient history of the city. See exhibits dating back to the era of the Majapahit Empire, Chinese and Annamese ceramics, wayang puppet figures, paintings and photos of colonial Surabaya and batik print-making equipment.