On the bank of the Kalimas River, the Indonesian Navy’s first submarine - the Soviet-built Whiskey class sub-Pasopat - is now a national monument honouring heroes of the independence struggle and celebrating the country’s seafaring tradition. Built in Vladivostok, it was bought by Indonesia in 1962.

The so-called Temple of Hercules (AD 162–166) dominates Amman’s Citadel. These days, archaeologists prefer to call it the Great Temple of Amman, since its dedication remains uncertain. Only six Corinthian columns stand reconstructed today. The rest lie as fragmented drums, their dowel holes revealing Roman engineering techniques. A colossal marble statue once graced the site. All that survives is a weathered elbow and fingers, suggesting a figure over 13 metres tall, likely toppled in the 8th-century earthquake. The temple’s platform doubles as Amman’s premier viewpoint, framing the modern city against the 150-metre Jordanian flag. Excavations nearby expose layers of civilisation: Umayyad palaces, Byzantine churches, and Roman baths intertwine with older Bronze Age ruins. Though the Hercules name persists thanks to the sculptural remnant, archaeologists emphasise the temple’s civic importance. Its sheer scale reflects Amman’s status as a regional hub. Guides prove invaluable for deciphering 9,000 years of history compressed into a single hilltop.

A steep climb (or car ride) up Mount Entoto is worth the time if only for the spectacular views over sprawling Addis Ababa unfolding from the top. On Sunday, the hilltop Maryam Church is open for mass (closed other days of the week), and the Entoto Maryam Museum showcases artefacts and personal belongings of Emperor Menelik, whose humble palace still stands not too far away.