King Faisal Street is one of the main thoroughfares of Amman. On this palm-fringed strip, gold dealers from the Gold Souq weigh bracelets under neon lights, while juice vendors press pomegranates nearby and old men play backgammon at pavement cafés. The street’s charm lies in its contrasts: the 1924 post office (now The Duke’s Diwan) overlooks a row of buzzing local businesses, and the call to prayer from Al Hussein Mosque competes with taxi horns. At night, the air thickens with the scent of sizzling lamb from decades-old shawarma stands, and crowds gather at Habibah Sweets for knafeh so fresh it crackles.

In the 1st district, marvel at a breathtaking light installation by the artist Olafur Eliasson on the façade of the Verbund headquarters. The artwork can be seen on permanent display in Vienna every day at dusk, when 32 fluorescent lamps cast light on the artificial fog climbing up the side of the building and spreading over the pavement. You can visit the exhibition in the Vertical Gallery by appointment (call ahead) every Wednesday at 6:30pm as part of a free art talk.

The Royal Tank Museum rolls into Amman’s cultural scene with unexpected swagger, its 150 armoured beasts (from WWI relics to Jordan’s homegrown modifications) displayed with cinematic flair. Architect Zaid Daoud’s sleek 2018 design lets you circle Soviet T-34s and hulking Challengers like a battlefield rubbernecker, while interactive displays appeal to kids and military buffs alike. Displayed chronologically, the exhibits trace Jordan’s martial legacy from the Arab Revolt’s camel cavalry to 1967’s Battle of Karamah, though the real stars are the machines. German Panzers stand next to locally retrofitted Centurions, their spec in English and Arabic. Recharge your batteries at the café on the top floor. Budget an hour, ignore the jingoistic plaques, and don’t miss the outdoor arena where (select weekends) engines roar to life.