The so-called Temple of Hercules (AD 162–166) dominates Amman’s Citadel. These days, archaeologists prefer to call it the Great Temple of Amman, since its dedication remains uncertain. Only six Corinthian columns stand reconstructed today. The rest lie as fragmented drums, their dowel holes revealing Roman engineering techniques. A colossal marble statue once graced the site. All that survives is a weathered elbow and fingers, suggesting a figure over 13 metres tall, likely toppled in the 8th-century earthquake. The temple’s platform doubles as Amman’s premier viewpoint, framing the modern city against the 150-metre Jordanian flag. Excavations nearby expose layers of civilisation: Umayyad palaces, Byzantine churches, and Roman baths intertwine with older Bronze Age ruins. Though the Hercules name persists thanks to the sculptural remnant, archaeologists emphasise the temple’s civic importance. Its sheer scale reflects Amman’s status as a regional hub. Guides prove invaluable for deciphering 9,000 years of history compressed into a single hilltop.

The Jordan National Gallery of Fine Arts offers a refreshing counterpoint to Amman’s ancient ruins. It showcases contemporary works from across the Islamic world in two airy buildings that flank a sculpture-dotted park. Founded in 1980 under royal patronage, its collection spans 2,000 pieces: from provocative Palestinian installations to delicate Sudanese weavings. Be sure to check the rotating exhibitions in Building 1. Building 2 anchors the experience. Start at the ground-floor, then work your way up through bold Jordanian abstracts before rewarding yourself at the top-floor café. Its terrace overlooks Jabal al-Luweibdeh’s artsy rooftops, perfect for reflecting over mint tea after browsing the art library’s curated books. Free from crowds (and mercifully air-conditioned), it’s where Amman’s creative pulse feels most immediate.

Housed in a 13th century building that was once a Benedictine monastery, the National Museum of San Matteo contains works from the main religious buildings of the city. The 14th and 15th century collections are remarkable: the Pisan sculpture and a collection of paintings consisting of nearly 200 works from the Tuscan school. The picture gallery keeps paintings by Italian and foreign artists dating back as far as the 18th century, ecclesiastical vestments and liturgical goldworks.

Lungarnos are quays that run along a river. The Lugarnos of Pisa, with their beautiful palaces and romantic bridges over them, have been the heart and soul of the city for centuries. Today, it is possible to walk along them to admire river Arno and its surroundings. If the weather is good, you can stop and eat an ice cream or get a drink in one of the several cafes along them.