Bab al-Bhar, the monumental gateway to the Medina of Tunis, stands as a portal between eras. Once part of the old city’s defensive walls, its arch now opens onto a lively plaza where daily life unfolds. Here, children play by fountains, artisans sell traditional textiles, and tea houses hum with conversation. Beyond lies the Medina, Tunisia’s historic heart. Its narrow streets branch into specialised souqs, each dedicated to specific crafts: copper smiths hammering wares, perfumers blending oils and leather workers stitching goods. At its centre rises Al-Zaytuna Mosque, the city’s oldest and most revered site. Stalls between these hubs offer ceramics, textiles, and other handcrafted treasures. Visit mid-week to navigate comfortably. On Saturdays, the crowds can become overwhelming, and on Sundays many shops stay closed.

Housed inside the former Presidential Palace and decorated by the world-famous Tiffany's, the Museo de la Revolución tells the – admittedly partial – story of the Cuban revolution, with explanations provided in both English and Spanish. Bullet holes remaining after a failed assassination attempt of the palace's last resident, former president Fulgencio Batista, are still clearly visible in the hall area.

Avenue Habib Bourguiba, the grand central boulevard of Tunis, channels Parisian elegance with its tree-lined median, sidewalk cafés and historic facades. The thoroughfare, named after Tunisia’s first president, serves as a busy commercial hub and an open-air museum of 20th-century history, flanked by landmarks like the French Embassy and the neo-Byzantine Cathedral of St Vincent de Paul. Dominating the eastern end, the Tunis Clock Tower rises 38 metres above Place du 7 Novembre. Its gilded, lattice-patterned design blends modernist and traditional motifs, glowing amber after dark. Though functionally modest (locals joke about its reliability), the tower’s height and central roundabout position make it an unavoidable landmark. By day, the avenue thrums with shoppers and coffee drinkers; by evening, it becomes a stage for leisurely promenades. For visitors, it’s less about individual sights than the collective energy: the hum of conversation, the scent of orange blossoms, and the weight of history beneath your feet.

Olbia is the hub for excursions to the northeast and its fabled coast. Buses leave just off the Corso Umberto I in all directions, all within easy reach for just a few euros. The town beach is the Lido del Sole, but far better is the white beach of Pittulongu, located 5 kilometres away, with its dreamy views across to Tavolara Island.