Carthage, the fabled fallen city, lies partially excavated among the whitewashed villas of the most affluent suburb of Tunis. A short drive from the city centre, this UNESCO World Heritage Site was once a Mediterranean powerhouse — a wealthy trading hub that stirred ancient myths, poems and rivalries. The archaeological park reveals remnants of the Carthaginian Empire and later Roman rule: 2nd-century BC theatres, baths and residential ruins stand testament to its layered history.

Built in the 17th century, Sidi Youssef Dey Mosque was the first Ottoman-style mosque in Tunis, designed by Andalusian architect Ibn Ghalib. Its eclectic mix of influences reflects the era’s cultural exchanges. Flanked by Turkish souqs — El Trouk (once tailors, now clothing and embroidery), El Berka (formerly a slave market, later jewellery traders), and El Bechamkia (slippers and shoes) — the mosque served the city’s Ottoman-era merchants. The minaret, topped with a distinctive green-tiled pyramidal crown, became a model for later Ottoman designs in Tunis. Its octagonal shape, novel at the time, subtly asserted Ottoman authority. Inside, the mosque houses the tombs of Youssef Dey, commander of the janissaries, and his family. Sidi Youssef remains an active mosque, so plan visits outside prayer times, when non-Muslim visitors may enter. Its striking architecture, both inside and out, anchors a neighbourhood rich with history.

La Goulette stretches along a narrow sandbar between Lake Tunis and the Mediterranean, connected to central Tunis by the TGM commuter rail. This unpretentious port town thrives on simple pleasures: the kilometre-long seaside promenade lined with cafés where locals play backgammon over mint tea, and family-run restaurants serving just-caught seafood. While short on conventional sights, its charm lies in the rhythm of dockworkers, fishermen, and evening strollers who animate the waterfront. The ferry terminal links Tunisia to Europe, lending the harbour constant movement. Come for grilled octopus at plastic-covered tables as tankers glide past, or join the evening passeggiata when the sea breeze tempers the day’s heat.